Design a Topographic Map Dinner Invitation

Make a USGS-style topo map invitation in Lopsy. Contours come from a painted heightmap, plus a timberline tint, hillshade, waterlining and map type.

  • Advanced
  • 120 min
  • 35 steps

Published

The finished Timberline Supper invitation. A red line reads The pleasure of your company is requested at, above the title Timberline Supper in black small caps. Below is a framed topographic map. Brown contour lines wind around Tamarack Peak, the alpine ground is pale and the slopes below the timberline are tinted green. A red dotted trail switchbacks up from the trailhead to Timberline Lodge, marked by a red ring, beside a blue lake with waterlining and a creek with its name set along it. Under the map are the date, three lines of invitation text, a red reply line, a legend, a scale bar and a north arrow.

Old USGS topographic maps have their own quiet look. There's a cream sheet, fine brown contour lines with every fifth one drawn heavier, and a green wash wherever trees grow. Lakes get rings of blue lines, and the names are set in small, carefully spaced type. It's a lovely look to borrow for an invitation, especially one that asks guests to walk somewhere.

This tutorial makes Timberline Supper, an invitation to dinner at a mountain lodge. The whole invitation is a map of the walk. You won't draw a single contour line by hand. Instead you'll paint a grey heightmap, where white is high and black is low, and let Lopsy's filters turn it into contours. Posterize cuts the heights into terraces, and Find Edges traces where one terrace meets the next. The same heightmap then gives you the timberline tint and the hillshade, so everything lines up.

Along the way you'll use gradients, Clouds, Liquify, Posterize, Find Edges, Threshold, the Magic Wand, Brightness/Contrast, the Pen tool, the Spray tool, layer effects, text on a path, rotated text, copy and paste, transforms, guides and groups.

The document is 1500 × 2100 px, a 5 × 7 inch card at 300 dpi.

The palette:

  • Paper
  • Contours
  • index contours
  • Woodland
    on Multiply
  • Lake
  • shore and creeks
  • Trail red
  • Ink

The fonts are Playfair Display SC for the title, Barlow Condensed for the small caps labels, and Old Standard TT for the invitation text and place names. All three are in Lopsy's font list.

A few habits that save trouble:

  • Fills don't clear the selection. After Edit → Fill, press ⌘D before you draw the next selection.
  • The exact-corners dialog. With nothing selected, click once with the Rectangular (or Elliptical) Marquee and a dialog asks for the exact corners. Use it whenever a step gives coordinates. Positions in this tutorial are in pixels from the top-left corner of the page.
  • New layers land above the active one. Click the row you want to build on before you click Add Layer.
  • Text uses the current colour. Set the foreground to ink before you type, unless a step says red or blue.
  1. Set up the paper and guides

    1. Choose File → New and make a 1500 × 2100 pixel document. It starts with a white Background and an empty Layer 1.
    2. Click Layer 1, set the foreground to and choose Edit → Fill. This is the paper.
    3. Click the top ruler at 90 and at 1410 to drop two vertical guides. Then click the left ruler at 330 and 1610 for two horizontal ones.

    The guides mark the map frame, with room for the title above and the invitation details below.

    A blank cream page with four blue guides marking a map frame inset from the edges
  2. Shape the mountain with gradients

    The heightmap is three gradients, each on its own layer. White will be the top of the mountain and black the lowest ground.

    1. Add a layer called Terrain. Pick the Gradient tool, set Type to Linear, open Advanced… and set the stops to and . Drag from the top edge of the frame straight down to just below the bottom edge. The land now falls gently to the south.
    2. Add a layer called Summit. Switch to Radial with stops and . Drag from where the peak goes, at about 1000, 720, out about 1250 px to the left. Open the layer's effects (the sparkle icon on its row) and set Blend to Lighten.
    3. Add a layer called Shoulder for a lower second peak. Drag a radial gradient from to black, starting at about 420, 620 and going about 640 px down. Set it to Lighten too.

    Lighten keeps whichever layer is brighter at each point, so the peaks merge the way hills do. Click Shoulder and choose Layer → Merge Down twice, so all three end up on Terrain.

    Two soft white radial glows on black, a large one right of centre and a smaller one to its left
  3. Roughen it with Clouds

    Smooth gradients would give you perfect bullseye contours, and no mountain looks like that.

    1. Add a layer, run Filter → Clouds… with Scale 3, and set the layer's opacity to 16% (click the percentage on its row). Merge it down.
    2. Add another layer, run Clouds… with Scale 9 for small bumps, set it to 9%, and merge it down too.

    Clouds is random, so your mountain will look different from this one. That's fine.

    The smooth glows broken up by soft cloudy blotches
  4. Push ridges out with Liquify

    Real mountains have spurs, ridges running down from the top, with valleys between them.

    1. With Terrain active, open Filter → Liquify… and set Mode to Push Forward, Brush Size to 260 and Pressure to 85.
    2. Drag outward from just below the summit: once to the south-east, once straight south, and once west toward the shoulder. Each drag pulls bright, high ground out into a ridge.
    3. For valleys, drag the other way. Start at the bottom edge between two ridges and push up toward the summit, which carries dark, low ground uphill.
    4. Click Apply.
    The heightmap with bright fingers pushed out from the summit to the south-east and south
  5. Soften the heightmap

    Run Filter → Gaussian Blur… with Radius 9. Blurring removes the pixel-level noise, which would otherwise turn into ragged little contour islands.

    The finished grey heightmap, a bright peak with ridges falling to a dark south edge
  6. Carve the creek valleys and the lake basin

    Decide now where the water goes, because contours have to bend around it.

    1. Open Liquify… again with Brush Size 110 and Pressure 100. Follow the line the creek will take, from the bottom edge up to the lake, with short strokes that each push uphill. Do the same for a small stream coming down from below the summit to the lake. Apply, then do a second pass with Brush Size 90. Contours crossing these grooves will now bend into a V pointing upstream, which is how a stream reads on a real map.
    2. A lake surface is level, so flatten its basin. Lasso a lake shape a little larger than the lake you have in mind, at about 650, 1170, and choose Select → Feather… with 10.
    3. Pick the Eyedropper (I) and click just below the lake, where the creek will flow out. Make that grey a shade darker ( here), choose Edit → Fill and press ⌘D.
    The heightmap with a dark lake-shaped basin left of centre and faint grooves running down from it
  7. Posterize the heights into terraces

    1. Click Terrain and choose Layer → Duplicate Layer. Name the copy Contours work.
    2. Run Filter → Posterize… with Levels 21.

    The heights are now 21 flat terraces. Each step between two terraces will become one contour line, so the map has 20 of them from bottom to top.

    The heightmap reduced to flat grey steps like a stepped model of the mountain
  8. Trace the terrace edges

    1. Choose Filter → Find Edges. It applies at once and outlines every step between terraces in grey on black.
    2. Run Filter → Threshold… with Level 30 so every outline is pure white.
    White contour lines on black, following the terrace steps around the mountain
  9. Select just the lines

    The lines are only two pixels wide and hard to click on, so select the black instead and flip the selection.

    1. Pick the Magic Wand (W). In the options bar set Tolerance to 10 and untick Contiguous, so one click picks up every black area.
    2. Click any black area.
    3. Choose Select → Inverse. Now only the lines are selected.
    Marching ants running along every contour line
  10. Fill the contours

    1. Click Add Layer and name it Contours.
    2. Set the foreground to and choose Edit → Fill. Press ⌘D.
    3. Click Contours work and delete it with the trash icon at the bottom of the Layers panel.
    Thin brown contour lines over the grey heightmap
  11. Add heavier index contours

    On a USGS map every fifth contour is a heavier index contour. With Posterize you get these by doing the last four steps again with fewer levels:

    1. Click Terrain, duplicate it, and run Posterize… with Levels 5.
    2. Run Find Edges, then Threshold at 30. Wand the black with Contiguous off and choose Select → Inverse.
    3. Choose Select → Grow… with 1 to make the line thicker. Add a layer called Index Contours and fill it with .
    4. Press ⌘D and delete the work copy.

    Levels 21 gives 20 steps and Levels 5 gives 4, so each heavy line lands exactly on every fifth thin one.

    Every fifth contour drawn in a darker, thicker brown
  12. Find the timberline

    Trees stop at about the same height all around a mountain, so the woodland tint comes from the heightmap too.

    1. Duplicate Terrain once more and name it Woodland work.
    2. Trees don't stop neatly on a contour line, so rough up the copy first. Run Filter → Add Noise… with Amount 60, Mono and Gaussian, then Gaussian Blur… with Radius 10.
    3. Run Threshold… with Level 159. That's the height of the third heavy contour counting up from the bottom, the one that rings the summit. Everything below it turns black.
    4. Wand the black area with Contiguous off.
    5. Add a layer called Woodland, fill the selection with and set the layer to Multiply. Press ⌘D and delete Woodland work.
    A white alpine area on black, with marching ants around the black lower slopes
  13. Start the hillshade with an offset copy

    Hillshade is the soft shading that makes slopes look lit from the north-west. The trick is to compare the heightmap with a slightly shifted copy of itself.

    1. Duplicate Terrain and name it Hillshade. Duplicate that and name the copy Hillshade offset.
    2. On the copy, choose Filter → Invert and set its opacity to 50%.
    3. Press V for the Move tool, then press Shift+→ twice and Shift+↓ twice. That moves it 20 px right and 20 px down.

    Where the two layers line up they cancel out to flat grey. Where the ground slopes, they don't, and that difference is your shading.

    A greyish overlay where the mountain looks faintly embossed
  14. Boost the relief

    1. Click Hillshade offset and choose Layer → Merge Down. The result is mostly flat mid-grey with very faint relief.
    2. Run Filter → Brightness/Contrast… with Contrast 100, four times. Each pass doubles the relief.
    3. Run Gaussian Blur… with Radius 4 to smooth out the banding.

    Woodland still sits on top, so the result looks green and harsh until the next step.

    A stark relief image, green-tinted by the woodland layer above it, with lit north-west slopes
  15. Blend the shading and trim to the frame

    1. Set Hillshade to Overlay at 70%. Mid-grey disappears in Overlay, so only the light and shade show.
    2. Click the eye on Terrain to hide it. Keep the layer, though, in case you want to change the terrain later.
    3. Trim the terrain layers to the frame. Press M, click once on the canvas, and enter 90, 330 to 1410, 1610 in the exact-corners dialog. Choose Select → Inverse.
    4. Click Hillshade, Woodland, Contours and Index Contours in turn, pressing Delete on each. The selection stays put while you switch layers. Then press ⌘D.
    A cream map with green woodland, brown contours and soft shading, inside the guides
  16. Fill the lake and add waterlining

    Waterlining is the old engraver's habit of repeating the shoreline as rings inside the water.

    1. Click Contours and add a layer called Lake. With the Lasso (L), draw the lake inside the flat basin, about 225 × 125 px, and fill it with . Keep the selection.
    2. Give it a shoreline. Open the layer's effects, tick Stroke, and set the colour to , Width to 3 and Position to inside.
    3. Add a layer called Waterlines, with the lake still selected, and set the foreground to .
    4. Choose Select → Shrink… with 9 and Edit → Fill. Then Shrink… by 2 (the screenshot shows this moment) and press Delete. That leaves a 2 px ring 9 px inside the shore.
    5. Twice more: Shrink… by 7, Fill, Shrink… by 2, Delete.
    6. Press ⌘D and set the layer to 45%.
    The lake filled solid blue with marching ants just inside its shore, before the first Delete
  17. Draw the creeks with the Pen

    1. Add a layer called Creek and press P for the Pen tool. In the options bar set Stroke to 4.
    2. Start at the lake's south-west shore and work down along the valley you carved. Drag at each point to make a smooth curve rather than just clicking. Go just past the bottom of the frame, then press Enter to stroke the path in the foreground blue.
    3. Draw the stream above the lake the same way at Stroke 3, from below the summit down to the lake's north shore.
    4. Trim Creek to the frame with the same corner-dialog selection and Inverse.

    The paths stay in the Paths panel after stroking. The white dots you'll see along the stream in later screenshots are its anchor points, not paint.

    A blue creek winding from the lake down to the bottom edge, and a stream above the lake
  18. Snap the frame to the guides

    1. Make sure View → Snap to Guides is ticked.
    2. Add a layer called Neatline and press M.
    3. Drag a marquee from near the top-left guide corner to near the bottom-right one. The corners snap onto the guides.
    A marquee snapped exactly to the four guides around the map
  19. Draw the neatline and edge ticks

    1. Choose Select → Grow… with 4, set the foreground to , and choose Edit → Fill.
    2. Choose Select → Shrink… with 4 and press Delete. That leaves a crisp 4 px frame. Press ⌘D.
    3. Pick the Pencil (N) at Size 3. To draw a straight tick, click on the outer edge of the frame, then hold Shift and click again a little further out.
    4. Space short ticks (16 px) every 220 px along the top and bottom and every 213 px down the sides, so each edge is divided into six.
    5. Make the ticks at the one-third marks longer, at 30 px. Those are at x 530 and 970 on the top and bottom, and y 757 and 1183 on the sides.
    The map framed by a black line with short and long ticks along every edge
  20. Walk the Supper Trail

    1. Add a layer called Trail. Pick the Brush (B) and open the brush settings. Set Size 9, Hardness 100, Opacity 100 and Spacing 230%. That much spacing turns a stroke into a row of dots.
    2. Set the colour to . Click at the trailhead near the bottom right, at about 1186, 1556. Then Shift-click each switchback corner on the way up to the lodge site at about 822, 1048. Shift-clicking draws a straight dotted line from the last point.
    3. For the summit path, use Size 6, Spacing 260% and ink , and Shift-click from the lodge up to the summit at about 1012, 726.
    4. Set Spacing back to 10% so later brush strokes are solid.
    A red dotted trail switchbacking up from the bottom right to a spot below the alpine zone
  21. Rotate the lodge symbol

    1. Add a layer called Lodge. Use the exact-corners dialog to make a 26 × 26 square marquee centred on the lodge site, from 809, 1035 to 835, 1061. Fill it with ink.
    2. Press V and drag the round handle just outside a corner to rotate the square about 15°. A slightly turned building looks hand-placed.
    3. Press ⌘D to commit.
    A small black square inside a rotation box, being turned with the corner handle
  22. Ring the lodge and mark the summit

    1. Add a layer for the ring. Pick the Elliptical Marquee, click once, and enter 776, 1002 to 868, 1094. Fill it with .
    2. Choose Select → Shrink… with 6 and press Delete, which leaves a ring. Press ⌘D and choose Layer → Merge Down so the ring joins Lodge.
    3. On Lodge, lasso a small triangle about 30 px wide on the summit and fill it with ink.
    4. Fill an 18 px circle at the trailhead with ink.
    The lodge inside a red ring, a black triangle on the summit and a black dot at the trailhead
  23. Add marsh tufts and clearings

    1. Add a layer called Marsh. With the Pencil at Size 2 in , Shift-click a short base line about 28 px long, then three little blades fanning up from it.
    2. Copy the tuft around the lake's west shore. Marquee it and press ⌘C, then ⌘V. The paste lands on its own layer on top of the original, so drag it to a new spot with the Move tool and choose Merge Down. Repeat a few times.
    3. Clearings. Click Woodland, lasso two meadow shapes in the woods and press Delete, so the paper shows through. Press ⌘D.
    Blue marsh tufts beside the lake and two pale clearings in the green woods
  24. Draw the rules, scale bar and north arrow

    The collar is the margin under a map where the legend and scale live.

    1. Click Marsh and add a layer called Collar Rules. With the Pencil at Size 2 in ink, Shift-click a rule across the frame's width at y 1922. Add a short upright rule at x 790 from y 1684 to 1896, to split the collar into two columns.
    2. Scale bar. Fill a rectangle from 558, 1964 to 942, 1980 with ink. Fill 655, 1966 to 750, 1978 and 845, 1966 to 940, 1978 with paper colour, so the second and fourth quarters turn white inside a black outline. At 300 dpi, 384 px is about 1.3 inches, which is one mile at 1:50 000.
    3. North arrow. Set the foreground back to ink, because the scale bar left it on paper. Shift-click a vertical true-north line from 1372, 2024 up to 1372, 1960, and lasso a small five-pointed star just above it. Add a second line from the same foot, leaning about 15° right, for magnetic north. Give it a half arrowhead: a small lassoed triangle with one barb on one side of the tip.
    Under the map, a divider rule, a column rule, a black and white scale bar and a north arrow
  25. Draw the legend lines

    The legend symbols sit in a column at x 830. The rows are 38 px apart, at y 1734, 1772, 1810, 1848 and 1886.

    1. With the Brush, draw a 70 px row of red dots (Size 9, Spacing 230%) on the first row and black dots (Size 6, Spacing 260%) on the second. Set Spacing back to 10% afterwards.
    2. On the last row, use the Pencil to draw a 4 px line in with a 2 px line in just under it, to stand for index and intermediate contours.
    Two short dotted lines and a pair of contour lines in a column at the left of the legend
  26. Copy the lodge and summit into the legend

    1. Click Lodge, marquee the lodge ring, and press ⌘C. Click Collar Rules and press ⌘V. The copy pastes in place, right on top of the map's lodge, on a new layer.
    2. Marquee the pasted copy, press V, and hold ⌘ while you drag a corner handle inward. ⌘ keeps the proportions, so it stays a circle. Stop at about 42% of the size and press ⌘D.
    3. Drag it down to the third legend row and choose Merge Down.
    4. Copy the summit triangle the same way, without scaling it, and put it on the fourth row.

    Line each symbol up with the middle of the row where its label will go.

    A pasted copy of the lodge ring being scaled down by a corner handle beside the map
  27. Set the collar type

    If you click on an existing text box with the Text tool, Lopsy edits it instead of starting a new one, and boxes extend down and to the right of where you clicked. So set the lowest line first and work upward. If a text layer is still active when you change the font settings, they apply to that layer, so click Collar Rules before each new line.

    Work upward in this order, in ink unless a line says otherwise:

    • Below the scale bar, the labels 0, ½ and 1 MILE in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 20, each centred under its point on the bar. Then SCALE 1:50 000 just above the bar, with letter spacing 4.
    • CONTOUR INTERVAL 40 FEET at the far left, level with the scale bar, in Barlow Condensed Medium 20 with letter spacing 3.
    • MN in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 16 beside the tip of the magnetic north line.
    • The five legend labels in Old Standard TT Regular 26, starting at x 930 and centred on their rows: Supper Trail · 2.1 miles, Summit path, Supper at Timberline Lodge, Tamarack Peak · 6,184 ft, Index and intermediate contours.
    • LEGEND above them at x 830, top at y 1684, in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 24 with letter spacing 6.
    • KINDLY REPLY BY AUGUST 20 at the left, top at y 1872, in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 28 in red , with letter spacing 4.
    • The invitation in Old Standard TT Regular 31 with Line height 1.3, top at y 1740: Cocktails at the trailhead at half past five, / a lantern-lit walk up the Supper Trail, / and dinner at Timberline Lodge at seven.
    • SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2027 at the top of the left column, top at y 1684, in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 36 with letter spacing 3.

    Line up the left column at x 90, flush with the frame. Use the arrow keys with the Move tool to nudge.

    The collar with the date, three lines of invitation text, a red reply line, the legend text and scale labels
  28. Label the contours and the trailhead

    Map labels go above all the map art, so click Marsh before each new label. Most get a halo, a thin outline in the paper colour that cuts through any line beneath the letters. To add one, open the label's effects, tick Stroke, and set , Width 3, Position outside.

    1. TRAILHEAD in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 22, just right of the dot, with a halo.
    2. Contour labels. The interval is 40 feet, so each heavy line is 200 feet higher than the one below. Here the heavy line ringing the summit is 6000, the next one down is 5800, and the lowest is 5600.
    3. Find a spot where a heavy line runs fairly straight, near the trail's lower switchbacks. Lasso a box about 70 × 28 px along it. Click Contours and press Delete, then click Index Contours and press Delete, then press ⌘D. That cuts a gap in the lines.
    4. Click Marsh and type 5800 in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 22 in . Rotate it with the round corner handle to match the line (about 17° anticlockwise here), then nudge it into the gap.
    A gap cut in a heavy contour with 5800 set in it, and TRAILHEAD beside the black dot
  29. Set the creek name on a path

    1. With the Pen, draw a gentle curve beside the lower creek, about 14 px to its upper left. Start downstream and work upstream, so the text reads uphill rather than upside down. Click the ✓ in the options bar to keep the path without stroking it.
    2. Press T and set Old Standard TT, Italic, 24 px, . Water names are traditionally set in italic. Click in an empty spot, type Tamsin Creek and press Tab.
    3. In the options bar, choose your new path in the Path dropdown. The text jumps onto the curve.
    4. Give it a paper halo.
    Tamsin Creek in blue italic following the curve of the creek
  30. Name the lake, meadow and lodge

    • Tamsin Lake in Old Standard TT Italic 25, , centred in the lake. Instead of a paper halo, give it a 5 px halo in the lake colour , so the waterlines break around the name.
    • ELK MEADOW in Barlow Condensed Medium 20 with letter spacing 3, centred in the clearing. It sits on bare paper, so it needs no halo.
    • Supper at seven in red Old Standard TT Italic 24, just right of the ring, with a paper halo.
    • TIMBERLINE LODGE in Barlow Condensed Bold 26 with letter spacing 2, just above it, with a paper halo. Keep both clear of the trail dots.
    Tamsin Lake in blue italic inside the lake, ELK MEADOW in the clearing, and TIMBERLINE LODGE with Supper at seven beside the ring
  31. Name the peaks

    1. 6000. Cut a gap in the heavy contour on the shoulder and set 6000 in it, as you did for 5800.
    2. 6184 in Barlow Condensed SemiBold 22, just right of the summit triangle, with a paper halo.
    3. TAMARACK PEAK in Old Standard TT Bold 32 with letter spacing 6, centred about 45 px above the triangle, with a paper halo.
    4. LITTLE TAMARACK in Old Standard TT Bold 22 with letter spacing 4. Rotate it about 8° anticlockwise to follow the ridge, then move it onto the shoulder and give it a paper halo.
    The label LITTLE TAMARACK inside a rotation box, tilted to follow the ridge, with TAMARACK PEAK set over the summit
  32. Set the title

    1. Corner coordinates. Set these in Barlow Condensed Medium 20, about 22 px outside each corner of the frame, with the right-hand ones aligned to the frame's right edge. The top corners read 121°45′ · 46°18′ and 121°40′30″ · 46°18′. The bottom corners repeat the same longitudes with 46°15′.
    2. Subtitle. AN EVENING AT SIX THOUSAND FEET ON THE SHOULDER OF TAMARACK PEAK in Barlow Condensed Medium 24 with letter spacing 4, about 90 px above the frame.
    3. Title. Timberline Supper in Playfair Display SC Bold 112, with its top at about y 120. Type it in normal case and the small caps font turns the lower case into small capitals.
    4. Kicker. THE PLEASURE OF YOUR COMPANY IS REQUESTED AT in red Barlow Condensed SemiBold 26 with letter spacing 6, near the top of the page.

    Centre the last three on x 750 by nudging with the arrow keys.

    The header with a red kicker line, Timberline Supper in large small caps and a spaced subtitle, plus coordinates at the frame corners
  33. Stipple the talus

    Talus is the broken rock that piles up below a cliff, and topo maps show it as fine stippled dots.

    1. Click Marsh and add a layer called Talus. Lasso an area below the east face of the peak, keeping well clear of the peak's name.
    2. Pick the Spray tool (J) with Size 44, Density 12, Opacity 100 and Softness 0, in . Make three quick sweeps across the lasso. The selection keeps the dots inside it.
    3. Press ⌘D and set the layer to 75%.
    A lasso below the summit's east face with fine brown dots sprayed inside it
  34. Give the paper some grain

    1. Click Layer 1, the cream fill from the first step, and rename it Paper.
    2. Run Filter → Add Noise… with Amount 6, Mono and Gaussian. You'll barely see it, but it stops the cream from looking flat.
    The finished map with a faint grain on the cream paper
  35. Group the collar and export

    1. Click Collar Rules, then Shift-click the topmost collar text layer, which is 1 MILE if you followed the order above. Choose Layer → Group Layers and name the group Collar.
    2. Now the whole collar moves as one block. If you want to try the balance, nudge it with the arrow keys and press ⌘Z to step it back.
    3. Choose File → Save Project to keep the layers, and File → Quick Export PNG for the card.

    At 300 dpi it prints 5 × 7 inches. A warm, uncoated card stock suits it.

    The Layers panel with a Collar group selected and its bounding box around the bottom of the invitation